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Re-Living the Past –Part IV

So Ben and I walk down the main street from the railroad/bus station toward the center of town. We’re in good spirits. Why not? The afternoon is beautiful. Kilkinney is quaint. We’re out of the city of Dublin. As we walk we spot many small hotels that would have been acceptable to me, but Ben wants to push on. OK by me. We pass over the bridge of the River Nore and into the center of town. Irish towns have one or two, in the case of Kilkinney three, main streets. Most of the businesses are located on the main streets or adjoining streets nearby. As Ben and I approached the convergence of the three main street near the castle, near the major hotel there was a sign for a bed & breakfast. “I’ll check it out.” I volunteered. I went in there was an office on the left but I was told to go upstairs which I did No one answered upstairs so I retreated to the street.

No Ben! Well maybe he’s across the street in the hardware store or more likely the computer store. Nope no Ben. So I moved on up the street to where the three streets came together. Across the street was the main hotel of the town—looked too expensive for our taste— to my left the castle. A vendor was there selling food out of a trailer-like affair. I sat down on a bench. I was confident that Ben would show up in a while. Beside me was an Irishman who was eating his chips and chasing them down with a Coke. After a few moments he offered me the rest of his Coke. Even though I’m not partial to Coke it was a friendly gesture so I accepted. He was friendly and agreeable so I ventured.
“Is there a good bed & breakfast around?”
He answered with a long speech about where the cheapest and best B&Bs were to be had in the town of which I hardly understood a word except that they were located off the street to the right. About this time Ben showed up. Ben accepted what was left of the Coke. The man gave the same directions to Ben. Ben understood about as much as I did. So we started down the street to the right paying attention to the streets that branched off to the left.

So Ben and I saw a sign that said “Rooms.’ Again it was my lot to inquire. I was directed to a bar across the street. Yes, the room was available but the price seemed a little steep—ninety euros……approximately 110 USD. So Ben and I decided to continue our search. Once again Ben disappeared,,,,,,I waited….Ben was browsing in a book store….of all places. While he was absent I heard a street musician play Johnny Cash’s “Folsom Prison Blues”….so I had to contributed a few coins.
By now were we weary of searching… We stopped at another hotel, but I knew right away this was not to be our cup of tea. The sign in the lobby declare free car parking in the rear. I knew that anybody who could afford to tour by car was not in our league. I was right there was only one room left on the top floor for 110 euros. So I suggested to Ben, “Let’s ask in another bar?” Ben said OK. The bar we selected was “Syd’s Tavern,” We learned from the bartender that Syd was gone but would be back soon….and yes Syd might have a room available. I ordered the local brew Kilkinney Ale while Ben went looking for an internet cafe. Syd and Ben returned about the same time while I was on my second Kilkinney.
I gave Ben carte blanche….”Ben if the room suits you, it’ll be fine with me.” So Syd and Ben took off to look at the room which was located above the bar. Meanwhile the bartender made for me….and I guess the other patrons a delicious ham and cheese sandwich. Ben came back with Syd and it was then that Ben and I learned about Irish hospitality. The price was right and Syd didn’t expect any payment until we left the next morning. Likewise the bartender didn’t expect any money for the sandwhich or the brew…. amazing! I think I’ll have another. Thank you sir!
By now night was falling. We stowed our bags in the room and decided to have a more comprehensive look around Kilkinney. We walked up the street where the man eating the chips had told when we frist arrive that we would find some B&Bs. Sure enough they were there…..if we had continued. We also found a hostel that looked just fine to me. We stopped at another old, old church. Ben took some photographs of me standing in front of the church in the dark which I was certain wouldn’t come out, Remarkably the church came out fine, but I’m in the shadows.
Ben had already located the spot where he wanted to eat…..remember I had already had the sandwiches at Syds. The place Ben selected was an old two storey stone tavern. I agreed because the bill read something like traditional Irish music at 10:00 PM. The time was just after 8:00 PM. “Come on, Dad, don’t fade on me tonight.”
“OK, Ben, I’ll try to hang in there.”
Ben ordered Shepherd’s pie and I should have ordered coffee but I didn’t. Ben and I observed the folks at the restaurant. One one side was a couple….I don’t believe they were married because they were engaged in a serious business discussion. On the other side was a group of youths. One of their party was a young lady who was a non-stop talker. As the evening wore on her voice became more shrill and her laughter louder. Ben commented on this and, yes, I had to agree, however, the entire party seemed to be enjoying her. The business couple left and two young blond ladies took the place the couple had vacated. The place was full by now even though the band had yet to make an appearance. To order a drink one had to fight to the bar wait…wait….order and hope you’d get a drink.
The band ….that is to say two muscians appeared. The set to work installing their microphones and amplifier. The two pretty blonde ladies left, much to my disappointment. Later we thought they took a smoke break…not smoking in Irish pubs. About the time the band started playing the ladies re-appeared.
“Oh, It’s good to see you’ve come back,” I gaily greeted them. They both responded with warm smiles…..as if to say: What a nice, pleasant old guy. That was all the introduction Ben needed. Quickly he moved his chair closer to their table. Before I knew the three of them were engaged in animated conversation….

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